Tag: The Interesting and the Amusing in My Daily Life Page 3 of 10

The Great Battle of 2016 for Dar es Salaam (and the Soul of Amy Medina)

It was an Epic Battle.

The Heat had dominated for long enough.  Summer in Dar es Salaam is always dominated by Heat, but this year, El Nino gave it an extra boost that turned it into the worst season we’ve experienced in our 12 years here.  Days that turned into weeks that turned into months of temperatures well over 100 degrees, with a heat index of around 120.  Yep, for months.  And this in a place where there is very little air conditioning, and usually you are lucky to just have electricity.  

These past few months, almost every afternoon I would need to lie down in a heap of sweat and frazzled nerves, submitting myself to the Heat, picking up all the shreds of my resolve just to stand in front of my oven and cook dinner.  I told the Heat, You’ve won!  You’ve won!  I give up!  And yet still, relentlessly, it sought after my life, sucking away my patience and my brain cells, like The Machine in the Pit of Despair.

And so we all waited and prayed for our Rescuer to come:  The Rain.  It came in timidly at first, giving us a shower here and there, but the relief would only last a few minutes.  Then, in the last few weeks, the showers would last longer.  We would prop open our doors and put fans in front of our windows, desperately trying to suck in as much cool air as possible.  We would breathe deep and almost cry with relief…..but it would only last an hour.  The Heat would push the clouds away and reappear in full vengeance, angry from losing a battle.

Until yesterday.

It was morning, the clouds were out, the drizzling had begun.  But I needed flour.  I figured, Eh, the rain is just playing around again.  I can just walk to the nearest duka.  So I got out my umbrella and set off for the duka that’s about 100 yards away.  

No flour.  I pushed onwards, thinking that someone in some duka has got to have flour.  Isn’t anyone cooking chapati or mandazi today?  I checked another duka, then another.  Still no flour, and now the rain started to mean business.  Thunder and lightning flashed around me.  But I had come this far, and I didn’t want to go home without flour.  By the time I got to the fifth duka, the bottoms of my pant legs were soaked.  This duka did have flour, but only in 25 kilo sacks.  Um, that’s not going to work.  

In defeat, I turned around and headed home, but now I realized that I was right out in the middle of the Epic Battle with The Heat.  This was no sprinkle; This Was Rain.  And if you’ve never experienced the Rains Down in Africa, well, they’re amazing enough to write a song about.  My umbrella became useless; in vain I tried to pull my pant legs above my knees as I picked through the mud.  By the time I was almost home, no one was walking on the road anymore.  Some men beckoned me to come stand with them under an awning and I politely declined.  I’m sure they all got a good laugh at the mzungu who looked like a drowned rat and who never did find her flour.

It rained for eight hours yesterday, and the battle wasn’t without its casualties.  The Rain forced itself through schools, homes, and even walls, making rivers for itself in places where it wasn’t invited.  The roads flooded and snarled traffic for hours.  It took me 40 minutes each way to pick up Johnny from pre-school, only a mile away.  HOPAC closed an hour early to get their buses on the road so that the kids could be home before dark.  

The power went out in the middle of the night.  But for the first time in months, we didn’t wake up from suffocating heat.  The sun came out this morning, and the power is still off as I write this.  Most of the world would still consider this weather stifling.  However, my hair is not in a ponytail for the first time in months, and I am not sweating.  The Heat is losing its resolve.  

It feels like a miracle.

The Rain Won.

Collectively, Dar es Salaam breathes a sigh of relief.  And I might just get my brain cells back.

The Gift Bag

In order to break the solemnity of the last two weeks on this blog, I offer you the following:

Last week, I needed to buy 76 liters (20 gallons) of ice cream for an all-school event at HOPAC.  So I headed out to our local grocery store and asked the manager if I could order 76 liters of vanilla ice cream to pick up on Friday morning.  After all, this is not Costco.  This store doesn’t normally carry that much ice cream.

The manager and I got the order all sorted out, and then he re-appeared with a plastic grocery bag tied at the top with a shiny ribbon.  This is a thank-you gift, he told me.

Now, before I show you the contents, let me assure you that I am not complaining.  Customer service is not assumed around here, so I was quite pleased that the manager thought to extend this gift to me.

But I was also quite amused.

The gift bag contained:

1 box of popcorn

1 box of chocolate cookies

2 small jars of mayonnaise, one of them expired

11 trial sized toothpaste tubes in two flavors:  Neem, and Salt/Lemon (What?  You don’t use those flavors?)

1 energy drink

1 can of ginger beer

1 container of mint mentoes

2 containers of strawberry tic-tacs

1 Spiderman top

1 unidentifiable triangular toy  

But the very best item of all was this:

This, my friends, is a very handy kitchen tool meant for microwaving apples.

I know you are jealous.

We unfortunately do not own a microwave, though I’m not sure that cooking apples in a microwave has ever been a top priority.

You know what this means, don’t you?  I now have in my possession the most perfect White Elephant Gift ever.  Shhh…..don’t tell anybody.

You Just Never Know When a Coconut Might Kill You

Gil took this picture, but he wanted me to make sure to tell you that I took all the rest of the pictures in this post.  So don’t blame him for my lousy pictures, okay?  

Today’s lesson:  Never underestimate the importance of backyard safety.

A quick Google search reveals important safety precautions such as:

  • Clear up small pools of water that can breed mosquitoes.
  • Be careful not to leave out hot charcoal in a grill.
  • Have a fence separating the driveway from the play area.
  • Don’t leave children unattended with dogs.
  • Make sure children always wear shoes outdoors.
  • Never ever have a trampoline.

I was surprised though, that not a single internet list considered this one:

  • Beware of falling coconuts.

These backyard-safety-list-makers must not live in the tropics.  Everyone around here knows that you never intentionally stand under a coconut tree.

Our neighbors had a coconut tree that angled itself into our yard, so that the coconuts hung precariously over the area where we hang our clothes out to dry.  My house helper, Esta, told me that she was often nervous to spend any time out there, working on the laundry.  And after watching a few coconuts fall directly into the area where my kids had been pulling down clean clothes, Esta and I decided that was final: The tree needed to come down.  

Don’t mock me.  

So what if falling coconuts may or may not kill only 150 people per year?  Sharks kill less people than that, and people are still afraid of them.  If you had a shark hanging out where you put up your laundry, I’m sure you would ignore the statistics and get rid of that too.   

Gil, of course, rolled his eyes.  A falling coconut can deliver a force up to a metric ton, I told him. He asked me how many people I know who have died from falling coconuts.  It doesn’t matter.  Personally, I don’t want my laundry experience to be so stressful.

So yesterday, the tree came down among a crowd of neighborhood onlookers.  We hired a couple of guys to climb it, hack off all of the coconuts and palm fronds, and then cut the trunk down.  With only a machete.  You want to see skills?  These guys got skills.  

AND I was completely vindicated, you mockers.  As they were cutting down the coconuts, one of them fell onto a metal cover on our water tank, and SMASHED IT.  Yep, it smashed a metal cover.  Into pieces.  Did I mention that it smashed a metal cover?  See?  That could have been my head.

However, now that I look at the list of backyard safety issues, I guess I better turn my attention to the mosquitoes breeding in our septic tank.  Or my barefooted children, unattended dogs, un-fenced play area, zip line, un-netted trampoline, or the large pit of burning trash.  

But hey, at least no one will die by a falling coconut.

For those of you non-tropics dwellers, those hairy brown things in the grocery store do not actually start out like that.  Coconuts have a three inch deep husk.  Like I said:  The force of a metric ton.
Comin’ down.
Skills, People.

The tree cutter.  He asked me to take his picture; he was pretty proud of himself.

Never Trust a Dead Chicken

Josiah and Johnny came running into the house, slamming the door behind them.  “Leo killed a chicken!”  they yelled.

Not again, I thought.  I peeked out the window, and sure enough, the proud dog had deposited his prize right at the front door.  He looked at us hopefully as it lay there in a heap of feathers.  Um, sorry, Leo.  I’m not as excited about this gift as you are.

Since Gil was out at a training session, and I am quite convinced that disposing of dead chickens is men’s work, I sent a text to our gardener (who lives on our property), asking him to come help.  The chicken most certainly belonged to one of our neighbors before it made the unfortunate appearance in our yard, and would most likely want to be eaten by said neighbor.

The children continued to examine the chicken from the window, and Leo picked it up and started playing with it.  Not wanting chicken guts all over my front porch, I opened the door to tell him off.

In that moment, the dead chicken came to life!  Leaving a trail of feathers and squawking loudly, it headed right past me, through the open door, and into the house.

Bedlam ensued.  I screamed; the kids screamed; the chicken ran one way and the kids ran the other.  I grabbed a broom and headed after the chicken, hollering at Grace to come help me.  We cornered it in the pantry, where it managed to fit itself into every possible nook and cranny.  We finally managed to shove it out the back door, while I hollered at Josiah to tie up the dogs.

In pure chicken-like intelligence, it still ran towards the dogs that had already killed it once.  Grace opened the gate, and while I tried to prod it towards freedom, it promptly keeled over and died.  Again.  Now its head was under its body while I attempted to sweep the lifeless chicken towards the gate.

The chicken, who should be commended for its remarkable tenacity, once again sprang to life.  Thankfully our gardener showed up, and in one deft move, grabbed it by the legs.  He put a ladder up against our outside wall and peered over it, looking for the owner of the infamous chicken. The owner thanked us for rescuing it, but I’m guessing that dead-alive chicken is still going to end up in someone’s pot tonight.

I, however, would be very reluctant to try to put that death-defying chicken into a pot.  Boys and girls, we learned a very important lesson today:  Never trust a dead chicken.

How My Cell Phone Changed My Life in Tanzania (And Not How You Would Expect)

In Tanzania, paying bills used to be a colossal pain.

First of all, this is an entirely cash-based society.  Credit cards are slowly starting to show up, but still very rarely.  So in order to pay any bill, I needed to find cash.  That meant finding a working ATM, which used to be quite a challenge.  ATM’s are more plentiful now, but almost everything still requires cash.

Electricity comes through the LUKU box in our house. Electricity is pre-paid; you get a receipt with a number on it, which you enter into the LUKU box, which recharges your house with electricity.  In order to buy LUKU, I used to have to drive to find a LUKU shop with a working computer.  Sometimes that would require two or three stops.

Paying for internet required a 40-minute drive into town.  Paying the water bill meant a drive to the water company.  Getting airtime on my phone meant picking up phone vouchers at a shop.  Sometimes I felt like my part-time job was paying bills.

I wasn’t sure what it would take for this to change.  Most Tanzanians don’t have a bank account, so the idea of a checking account or credit cards wasn’t going to take off any time soon.  The only postal system is through post office boxes, and again, most Tanzanians don’t have one.  Thus, the traditional western system of bills in the mail would never be an option.  The modern western system of on-line banking is generations away.

So without bank accounts, mailboxes, or credit cards, how would the bill-paying system change?  There is, however, one thing that almost every single Tanzanian does possess–a cell phone.  You can go out into the deepest, remotest reaches of Tanzania (and most of Africa), and find cell phones.  You’ll see the Masai herdsman out in the middle of nowhere with his cattle–and his cell phone.  Even in villages with no electricity, you’ll see shop keepers with a generator or a solar battery, making a business out of charging people’s phones.

Source:  here

So some brilliant people–I don’t know who–established a method of cell phone banking.  Every cell phone in Tanzania–and most other African countries–is connected to a sort of virtual bank account.  It’s not really a bank account–there’s no central institution and no interest accruing.  But I can go to any “Wakala” (Agency)–and they are everywhere–and deposit cash onto the account connected to my phone number.  For my phone service, this is called M-Pesa.  



This system, which has been around for a few years but has become increasingly easier and more accessible, has changed everything.  

Last week, I received my water bill as a text message.  I then went into my M-Pesa account and paid the bill through my phone.  I can purchase LUKU through M-Pesa.  I can pay for internet through M-Pesa.  I have sent money to local newspapers to run advertisements for our training program.  I have paid a hotel bill and an airplane ticket.  I have sent money to an electrician.  Last week, I was collecting money for a group birthday gift, and a bunch of people sent me money through M-Pesa.

And let me get one thing straight.  I have a completely dumb, $25 Nokia phone.  Smart phones are plentiful here; I just have no desire for one.  An American might pay for his water bill on his phone as well–but in reality, he is not using his phone–he is using the internet.  This is not on-line banking; it’s an entirely different system that is totally based on the cell phone.

It’s absolutely brilliant.  This is the kind of innovation that is changing the developing world.  Pay attention.

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