Tag: Life in Tanzania Page 14 of 26

The Quest for a Tanzanian Christmas

Oh the weather outside is frightful, but the fire is so delightful…

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost nipping at your nose….

Just hear those sleigh bells jingling, ring ting tingling too…Come on its lovely weather for a sleigh ride together with you!

Snowmen. Fires. Pine trees. Candles. Wreaths. The North Pole.

Do you sense a pattern here?

Let me put it this way. We can go on and on with our children about how “Jesus is the Reason for the Season” but if the Church suddenly wanted to change Christmas to July 25th, there would be a revolt. Right? Am I right?

Everyone would say, “But it doesn’t feel like Christmas in July!” Somehow, along the way in our western traditions, Christmas became associated with, intertwined with, unable to be separated from….winter. It can still be Christmas without Santa Claus. It can still be Christmas even without presents. But can it be Christmas in the summer? Never.

I’m not saying there’s a problem with this. I love the sweaters and the snowmen and the candles just as much as the next person. And of course, I do believe that the Incarnation of Jesus Christ in all its wonder and mystery and hope is worthy of a gigantic celebration every year. But even though none of us Christians want to admit it, we would be pretty disappointed to take out the pine tree, sweaters, and fire places at Christmas time.

So this is the dilemma I face as a Southern Hemisphere dweller. It’s summer here. I live in a city that never feels like winter, but December is the hottest, stickiest time of the year. We dutifully put up our ridiculously fake Christmas tree, display the candles that we will never light because the overhead fans will immediately extinguish them (unless the power goes out, in which case we are sweating too much to enjoy them), and laugh every year we put the “Let It Snow” plaque on our door. Gil and I have always struggled with it not “feeling” like Christmas, even being from California! But it wasn’t such a big deal. We went ahead and pretended anyway.

But this year I noticed something subtle. My daughter. The Tanzanian one, born and raised here, adopted into an American family, duel citizenship. Comments she would make. Just little ones, as we went about our Christmas activities. “Why doesn’t it snow here?” “Why are we making paper snowmen?” And then the worst of all: “Christmas in America is better.”

Ugh. Not what I want to hear. Of course, I want her to miss her relatives. But that’s the only thing I want her to miss about Christmas in America. I want her to love Tanzania; I want her to love being Tanzanian. I don’t want her to think Christmas in America is better just because they have the cold and the fires and the fir trees.

So it struck me this year. For the sake of my kids, I don’t want to keep pretending it is winter here at Christmas time. I want them to love the fun and the feeling of Christmas, but yet not feel like they are missing out on something because we are going to the beach instead of the snow.

But I’m really not sure how to do that. This goes beyond the bounds of my limited creativity. Couldn’t we just adopt Tanzanian traditions, you ask? Well, there really aren’t any. Christmas is a national holiday, but only those with a Christian background celebrate it, which is about 30% of the population. But the full extent of their celebrating is to go to church and then have a big feast at home. Kids often get new church clothes.  That’s it. And what about Kwanza, you ask? Um, yeah. Even though it’s got a lot of Swahili words, no African I know has ever heard of it.

So basically we have to create our Christmas culture from scratch. I’ve been asking my Australian and South African friends (who are of European decent) about what they do. I’ve been paying attention to what my more creative friends in Tanzania do. Some of them don’t decorate a very fake pine tree. Some use a palm tree. A couple families use a sisal stalk, which turns out beautiful, by the way. Hmmm. I need ideas. Let me know if you have any.

My hope is that one day, years from now, when we spend Christmas in America, that Grace will tell me, “But Mommy, it doesn’t feel like Christmas here!”

Mama Dar

Last night, I was at this event:

A book launch.  For a book called “Mama Dar:  Tales of Family Life in Tanzania.”  A Collection of 34 essays, short stories, and poems by 27 authors from around the world.

I got the privilege of being one of those 27 authors.  I got published!  It’s just a short story about Josiah’s adoption, adapted from this blog, actually.  My good friend Dyan recommended me to the editors a couple months ago, and my story got in right before publication.  Pretty exciting!

It’s a very professionally done book, and all the proceeds are going to a battered women’s shelter in Tanzania.  If you would like a copy, send me an email or a comment and I can try to get one to you.  The cost is $20 which will also include shipping on my end.  I’m guessing that mostly this will appeal to those of my readers who have previously been mothers in Dar es Salaam!  But it will strike a cord with anyone who has raised children overseas, or is interested in Africa or Third Culture kids.

A Different Kind of Pilgrim

Thanksgiving kind of feels lonely when you are not in America.

True, it’s sweaty here and there are no leaves falling off of trees.  In fact, I discovered yesterday that the reason my turkey baster is perpetually sticky is because the rubber is disintegrating in the humidity.  But we do always manage to track down a turkey….we can make mashed potatoes and stuffing and green bean casserole and even sweet potatoes with the marshmallows on top.  And last night Daddy and the kids cut up my yellow pumpkin into a jack-o-lantern and slept with it in their room…here’s hoping it will still make great pie!

But anyway.  There’s still something missing, and it’s not just the grandparents and aunts and uncles and cousins.  Because that’s big, of course.   It’s just….It kind of feels like, living here, we are just pretending.  In America everyone drops everything on the fourth Thursday in November…everyone has the same menu, the same parade on their television sets, the same cranberry sauce out of a can. 

But here, well, today is just a normal day.  Everyone goes on with life as normal; rush hour, work, school.  We go on a treasure hunt for Thanksgiving foods instead of having them prominently displayed in the grocery store.  And we do our best, we re-create all the memories….but you can’t keep the kids up too late…school tomorrow.  Or, in our case, we celebrate on Saturday.  It kind of feels forced. 

It’s funny; this is my 14th Thanksgiving outside of America, and these things never bothered me that much before.  Maybe it’s because now I have kids.  Maybe it’s because on the last 4th Thursday in November, we were gathered around our parents’ tables. 

Of course, I still am reflecting on the multitude of what I have to be thankful for, and I am most definitely looking forward to Saturday.  I am not looking to feel sorry for myself; I am not asking for sympathy.  I love my Savior, and I love this life He has given me. 

And now I need to go cook up that Jack-o-Lantern.

The Oddness of My Normal Life

Just an ordinary Monday.

Kids up, breakfast made, Gil’s lunch assembled, Bible time with the kids.  Walked to school to pick up the car, told Grace, “Be ready for school by the time I get back!”  Out the door at 9 am. 

Drove the mile to Grace’s school, she got out, came to my window, and promptly burst into inconsolable tears.  Taken aback at the behavior of my normally sunny, outgoing, I-love-school daughter, I asked, “What’s wrong?”

“I don’t want to go to school!!!!”

Why not?

“I want to go home!!!!”

Firm Mommy.  Pried her fingers off the car, deposited her in the arms of one her teachers, and drove off with the vision of my daughter’s screeching face, outstretched arms in my rear-view mirror.

Horrible Mommy.  And my mind races.  Why didn’t she want to go to school?  Are they mistreating her?  Did something terrible happen that she didn’t tell me?  Mega guilt.

Next stop:  gas station.  Only and always full service in this country.  I asked for 40,000 shillings.  “Oops,” the attendant says to me, “I accidentally put in 46,000.”  Well.  Good thing I had the cash, since that’s the only method of payment. 

Drove for five minutes and realized the gas gauge was barely budging over a quarter of a tank.  For $30 worth of gas.  Irritated.

Stopped by the appliance store.  Since the weather has heated up, our fridge no longer can keep up and everything is spoiling, and no one has been able to fix it.  So we need a new refrigerator.  “We no longer sell refrigerators,” the clerk tells me.  “Now we only have air conditioners.”  I day dream for a minute about that air conditioner that is the size of a walk-in closet.  Maybe we could just make our whole house the temperature of a refrigerator.  Would that work?

Got to the grocery store.  I have recently fallen in love with weekly meal planning; it makes life so much less stressful.  That is, except when I can never find the things on my list.  Lasagna on the list for tonight; it’s Bible study night and I need something that will feed 8 people and can be adapted for our token vegetarian. 

No lasagna noodles.  I sigh and buy manicotti instead.  No fresh milk.  I debate for a while; do I want to buy boxed milk for the ricotta cheese, even though it’s twice the price of fresh milk and probably not even really milk?  (I mean, how can real milk sit on a shelf for months and not go bad?)  I sigh again and dump four boxes in the cart.

On the way home I stop at two other smaller shops.  But apparently all of Dar es Salaam is out of lasagna noodles and fresh milk. 

I go back to the gas station.  I put on my angry face and show the attendant my gas gauge.  “Is something wrong with the machine?” I ask.

“Maybe,” she shrugs. 

She pulls out the hose and puts another 15,000 shillings worth of gas in my car.  “Now check your gauge,” she asks me.  “Is that enough?”  The ludicrousy of this exercise does not escape me.  “I guess so,” I say.

Guilty Mommy is still present, so I decide to pick up Grace early from school.  I pull in and she is playing outside with her friends.  “Why are you here, Mommy?”

“Because you were upset.  Because you didn’t want to come to school today.”

“Oh.”  Long stare.

“Why didn’t you want to come to school?”

“Because I didn’t think it would be fun.  But it is.”

Sigh again.  “Do you want me to come back after lunch like usual?”

“Yes, please.”

(She and I will be “discussing” it this afternoon.)

Came home, gave Josiah hot dogs and mango for lunch, and now he is singing in his bedroom instead of sleeping.

The Dar es Salaam Driving Experience: In Pictures

It really is only about 10-15 miles to downtown from our house, and thus everywhere we need to go.  But bad roads, lots of traffic, non-working stop lights, and various other adventures mean that we spend a lot of time in the car when we go out.  On a recent loooong trip home with lots of traffic, I documented the journey in pictures.  So here we go:  A Dar es Salaam driving slice of life.

This is a fun part of the driving experience:  Numerous vendors that sell stuff to you while you are in traffic or at a stop light.  This guy is selling cashews. 

This guy is selling tangerines.  Other common items for sale:  gum, hankies, phone cards, toys, pillows, hangers, large maps of Tanzania, coat racks, mosquito zappers, and fire extinguishers.

However, this was the very first time we had ever seen someone sell guinea pigs to people in cars at a stop light.  It was this picture that got me started on my picture-taking spree that day.  However, as unique as this was, just a couple days later I saw something even more amazing:  a guy trying to sell a small fish tank, filled with water and fish, balanced on his head!  When you realize that these guys have just a few minutes (or less) to make their sale, it’s pretty crazy to think that someone would buy a fish tank that way.  I would love to know if he sold it!

During rush hour, traffic police (center in white) often take over guiding the intersections.  This was important to learn when we first came to Tanzania, because when this happens, they don’t turn off the traffic light.  So that means that when you come to an intersection, you have to first look for an officer before you look at the traffic light…or else have disastrous consequences!  (i.e. The traffic light could be green but if the officer says to stop, you’d better stop!)

One of many taxi stands.  Taxis are always white.

These kind of carts join the cars on the road.  The traffic was bad that day, so this guy passed us quite a few times as we inched up the road.

One of hundreds of cell phone service billboards

Piles of trash left behind by flooding water.

Potholes left behind by flooding water.

Our kids point out these bikes to us every time we pass them.  Hmmm…wonder why???

You can see on the far right that this is a rain gutter…filled to the brim.

In the past couple of years, Dar es Salaam roads have become infested with these little buggers.  They are a form of taxi, electrically run, and can go about as fast as a golf cart.  It’s a pain to get stuck behind one, they are hard to see, and do all kinds of dangerous things like drive on the sidewalk.  Ack!  Can you tell they drive me crazy?  (Pun intended)

The “dolla-dolla”–classic form of Dar es Salaam public transportation.  They also drive on the sidewalks, but at least they are easier to see.

You can’t really tell from this picture, but this part of the road was completely washed out by the rain, causing traffic jams for miles.  Thankfully, they have now begun to repair it!  Oh happy day!

People often say that the things that are hardest about life in Dar are the heat, the electricity, and the roads.  I think we would agree.

Page 14 of 26

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