The Great Battle of 2016 for Dar es Salaam (and the Soul of Amy Medina)

It was an Epic Battle.

The Heat had dominated for long enough.  Summer in Dar es Salaam is always dominated by Heat, but this year, El Nino gave it an extra boost that turned it into the worst season we’ve experienced in our 12 years here.  Days that turned into weeks that turned into months of temperatures well over 100 degrees, with a heat index of around 120.  Yep, for months.  And this in a place where there is very little air conditioning, and usually you are lucky to just have electricity.  

These past few months, almost every afternoon I would need to lie down in a heap of sweat and frazzled nerves, submitting myself to the Heat, picking up all the shreds of my resolve just to stand in front of my oven and cook dinner.  I told the Heat, You’ve won!  You’ve won!  I give up!  And yet still, relentlessly, it sought after my life, sucking away my patience and my brain cells, like The Machine in the Pit of Despair.

And so we all waited and prayed for our Rescuer to come:  The Rain.  It came in timidly at first, giving us a shower here and there, but the relief would only last a few minutes.  Then, in the last few weeks, the showers would last longer.  We would prop open our doors and put fans in front of our windows, desperately trying to suck in as much cool air as possible.  We would breathe deep and almost cry with relief…..but it would only last an hour.  The Heat would push the clouds away and reappear in full vengeance, angry from losing a battle.

Until yesterday.

It was morning, the clouds were out, the drizzling had begun.  But I needed flour.  I figured, Eh, the rain is just playing around again.  I can just walk to the nearest duka.  So I got out my umbrella and set off for the duka that’s about 100 yards away.  

No flour.  I pushed onwards, thinking that someone in some duka has got to have flour.  Isn’t anyone cooking chapati or mandazi today?  I checked another duka, then another.  Still no flour, and now the rain started to mean business.  Thunder and lightning flashed around me.  But I had come this far, and I didn’t want to go home without flour.  By the time I got to the fifth duka, the bottoms of my pant legs were soaked.  This duka did have flour, but only in 25 kilo sacks.  Um, that’s not going to work.  

In defeat, I turned around and headed home, but now I realized that I was right out in the middle of the Epic Battle with The Heat.  This was no sprinkle; This Was Rain.  And if you’ve never experienced the Rains Down in Africa, well, they’re amazing enough to write a song about.  My umbrella became useless; in vain I tried to pull my pant legs above my knees as I picked through the mud.  By the time I was almost home, no one was walking on the road anymore.  Some men beckoned me to come stand with them under an awning and I politely declined.  I’m sure they all got a good laugh at the mzungu who looked like a drowned rat and who never did find her flour.

It rained for eight hours yesterday, and the battle wasn’t without its casualties.  The Rain forced itself through schools, homes, and even walls, making rivers for itself in places where it wasn’t invited.  The roads flooded and snarled traffic for hours.  It took me 40 minutes each way to pick up Johnny from pre-school, only a mile away.  HOPAC closed an hour early to get their buses on the road so that the kids could be home before dark.  

The power went out in the middle of the night.  But for the first time in months, we didn’t wake up from suffocating heat.  The sun came out this morning, and the power is still off as I write this.  Most of the world would still consider this weather stifling.  However, my hair is not in a ponytail for the first time in months, and I am not sweating.  The Heat is losing its resolve.  

It feels like a miracle.

The Rain Won.

Collectively, Dar es Salaam breathes a sigh of relief.  And I might just get my brain cells back.

Imagine Your Children are Black

In his book, Under Our Skin, Benjamin Watson relates the story from the book/movie A Time to Kill, when the lawyer presents his closing argument. The lawyer is white, the jury is white, but the brutalized child-victim is black. The lawyer describes the 10-year-old girl walking home from school. Two grown men jump out of a truck, grab her, and viciously gang rape her. Then they throw beer cans at her, urinate on her, attempt to hang her, and throw her over a cliff.

The lawyer says to the jury, ‘Can you see her? I want you to picture that little girl. Now imagine she’s white.’

Watson writes, “The tragedy of the racial divide is that it simply isn’t personal enough. For so many, it’s just an argument, a philosophy, a political position….But these people are not really human lives to us. Those lives remain distant from us. And they are lives of a different color. Now imagine it’s your own child.

That is me.

When I think about racial problems in America, it is personal to me. Because it is my child.

So when Watson writes, “You simply need to know that in the black community, police abuse and brutality are givens,” I think about my own son. Watson continues, “The threat of police to innocent black people is assumed, something everything knows is true. And the black community knows that the white community is blind to it.  Why? Because they don’t experience it. We do. White people have no idea of the fear that black people feel towards the police. I cannot say that strongly enough, loudly enough, or forcefully enough.”

One day when he is living in America, how will I feel if my own son is needlessly pulled over and harassed by the police?

How will I feel if my daughter is trailed by a sales clerk at a high end department store?

How will I feel the first time my child is called the N-word?

I realize that my children are not African-American; they are just African. They do not share the heritage of the vast majority of black people in the United States. But one day, they’ll live in America, and it’s not going to matter where they are from. All the stereotypes and prejudices that African-Americans experience will be heaped onto them simply because of the color of their skin.

So racism is personal to me. But it should be for all of us.

I realize that I’m never, ever going to completely understand. There is always going to be a part of my children’s life experiences that I won’t be able to relate to. But I am certainly going to try.

If I am going to be brutally honest, I must admit that I don’t know if I would have been so interested in the topic of racism if I didn’t have black children. I’ve always known I wasn’t a racist, so I figured I wasn’t part of the problem. Couldn’t we all just be color-blind?

But because I have black children, I’ve determined to listen better. And harder. So when I readthe words of Christian Professor Jarvis Williams, “The color-blind theory of race denies the racialized experiences of those marginalized,” I pay attention. When my gospel-centered and African-American friend Wendy tells me how hurt she is when white Christians tell her they are color-blind and thus don’t need to discuss racial issues, I listen.

Watson writes, “You’d think that after all this time we’d have reached real parity between the races, that there would be truly equal opportunity, and that we’d be seeing and experiencing fairness in society between blacks and whites. A lot of white people believe that’s actually where we are. A lot of black people know we aren’t.”

Wendy explained to me, “The seemingly mistrust of blacks in general
is unfortunate… and it is real. The negative stereotypes and perceptions
are real, and hurtful.” Wendy is helping me to understand how I can be a better mom to my kids, but just as importantly, she is helping me become a better American Christian.



And that is exactly where the rubber meets the road. White American Christians have got to come to grips with the fact that the church is “the most segregated institution in America.  Christianity Today reported in January 2015 that ‘Sunday morning remains one of the most segregated hours in American life, with more than 8 in 10 congregations made up of one predominant group.'” (Benjamin Watson)

In his Letter from a Birmingham Jail, Martin Luther King Jr, wrote, “I must make two honest confessions to you, my Christian…brothers. First, I must confess that over the past few years I have been gravely disappointed with the white moderate. I have almost reached the regrettable conclusion that the Negro’s great stumbling block in his stride toward freedom is not the…Ku Klux Klanner, but the white moderate, who is more devoted to ‘order’ than to justice; who prefers a negative peace which is the absence of tension to a positive peace which is the presence of justice.”

As a white American Christian who has learned the hard way that I have not actively listened enough, cared enough, or tried hard enough to do my part towards racial reconciliation, I am making a plea to my Christian brothers and sisters to learn from my mistakes.

This book is an excellent place to start. My main purpose for this post is to strongly encourage you to read Under Our Skinby Benjamin Watson. It is short, readable, and relevant. Watson is gospel-centered, humble, and exhorts Christians to examine ourselves–no matter what our color–because all of us can work harder towards reconciliation. His words are fair, balanced, and convicting.

He writes, “The solution to the problem of race in America will be found by ordinary people, ‘good’ people, looking inside themselves, being honest about the assumptions and biases that have formed, and beginning to change what’s in their hearts.”

Would it matter to you more if your children were black? Then imagine they are.

Medina Life, January through March

Lots of dress up days at HOPAC this term.  This one:  Crazy Hair Day.  The Tanners were staying with us that week so Caleb and Imani got in on the craziness as well.
And here we have Sadness and Disgust.
Book week:  Quicksilver, the Owl from Why Mosquitoes Buzz in People’s Ears, and a Masai girl from We All Went On Safari.
When he’s not creating amazing costumes for our children, Gil is teaching in our theological training program.  
One of the best parts of HOPAC is Service Emphasis Week, when the entire school goes out on service projects.  These next few pictures are from Lily’s first grade class playing with the kids at a local pre-school.  

Meanwhile, Johnny started his own long-desired pre-school classes twice a week.  The most important part is the backpack, of course.  
Grace played U11 basketball this term, and her amazing coach is there in the background.
On the day of the final tournament, HOPAC had enough players for two teams.  They both won their brackets, which means they played each other in the final game.  When the two teams started off the game with handshakes, they quickly turned to hugs.  It was all pretty wonderful.
Sweating for Jesus on our church’s sports day.  It just happened to be about 110 degrees that day.  Yes, I did just about die.  Thanks for asking.  
Our friend Grace, who has been through our training program.
Our own Grace, winning the sack race.

Me not winning in musical chairs.

Reuniting with our Lotta, whom we hadn’t seen in about three years.  She was my student in grades 5 & 6, then she was Gil’s student, and she even lived with us one year.  We love her.
Reuniting with our friend Zahir, way back from our first term in Tanzania in 2001.  We hadn’t seen him in about 13 years.   We love him too.
Gil was invited to be the keynote speaker at a retreat over the Easter weekend.  

This conference was for university students, with an organization Americans would know as InterVarsity.  Gil got to teach about 80 university students for 3 days on the book of Habbakuk.
Since the kids were on spring break, we all headed to Morogoro with him (about 4 hours away inland) and enjoyed the slightly cooler weather there.

The Gift Bag

In order to break the solemnity of the last two weeks on this blog, I offer you the following:

Last week, I needed to buy 76 liters (20 gallons) of ice cream for an all-school event at HOPAC.  So I headed out to our local grocery store and asked the manager if I could order 76 liters of vanilla ice cream to pick up on Friday morning.  After all, this is not Costco.  This store doesn’t normally carry that much ice cream.

The manager and I got the order all sorted out, and then he re-appeared with a plastic grocery bag tied at the top with a shiny ribbon.  This is a thank-you gift, he told me.

Now, before I show you the contents, let me assure you that I am not complaining.  Customer service is not assumed around here, so I was quite pleased that the manager thought to extend this gift to me.

But I was also quite amused.

The gift bag contained:

1 box of popcorn

1 box of chocolate cookies

2 small jars of mayonnaise, one of them expired

11 trial sized toothpaste tubes in two flavors:  Neem, and Salt/Lemon (What?  You don’t use those flavors?)

1 energy drink

1 can of ginger beer

1 container of mint mentoes

2 containers of strawberry tic-tacs

1 Spiderman top

1 unidentifiable triangular toy  

But the very best item of all was this:

This, my friends, is a very handy kitchen tool meant for microwaving apples.

I know you are jealous.

We unfortunately do not own a microwave, though I’m not sure that cooking apples in a microwave has ever been a top priority.

You know what this means, don’t you?  I now have in my possession the most perfect White Elephant Gift ever.  Shhh…..don’t tell anybody.

Everything is Broken

We were mingling in the courtyard after church.  I was trying to keep track of my kids and was slightly distracted when the woman approached me.

I spent the first few moments trying to figure out if I knew her, since I’m still desperately trying to put names with faces at this church.  But when I realized she was only using Swahili with me, I figured I had never met her, since almost everyone at this church speaks English.  I shook her hand and smiled.

I’m looking for work, she told me.  Please, I’m looking for work.  I need to pay my son’s school fees. He’s in Form 4.  Do you have any work for me?  I can take care of your children.  I can wash your clothes.  I can sweep your house.   She spoke quickly and eagerly.

I gave her a sad smile.  I’m so sorry, I said.  I don’t have any work for you.  I already have someone who works for me.  I will pray that God helps you, I said.

Please, she said.  Tell me if you know someone who needs work.  I need to pay my son’s school fees.

Okay, I said.  I’ll let you know if I find someone.

But I knew I wouldn’t.  Because I’m already trying to help someone else find work.  Because I get this request all the time.  Because there’s 40% unemployment in this city.

I am so tired.

Meaningless! Utterly Meaningless!  Everything is meaningless!  What do people gain from all their labors at which they toil under the sun? (Ecclesiastes 1:2)

I realized last week, as more people read my blog than ever before, that my most popular posts have criticized short-term missions, revealed the ugly flaws of missionaries, and torn apart international adoption.

Great.

I was one of those idealists in college.  You know the type–with their flushed cheeks and sparkly eyes, passion in their voices, volunteering for all sorts of noble causes.  I was going to change the world.  I never wavered in my ambitions, and I signed on to become a full-time missionary when I was all of 21 years old.

I think of all my confidence in so many solutions that I was sure were the answer.   And here I am at 39.  Fourteen years as a missionary in three different ministries.  Yet sometimes I feel like all I have seen is various forms of brokenness….in the problems, of course, but also in what I thought were the solutions.  And in myself.

All streams flow into the sea, yet the sea is never full.  (Ecc. 1:7)

In the last few months, we’ve been devastated by massive brokenness in our mission leadership and in our Tanzanian church leadership.  We cry; we question; we rage.  We keep going, but it feels like everyone around me is limping.

All things are wearisome, more than one can say. (Ecc. 1:8)

I am just so tired.

I could choose to deny the reality of this brokenness.  I could watch a lot of television and eat a lot of chocolate and choose to turn my back on this reality.  I could try that, if I avoided the news and stayed at home all day.  Yet all I have to do is go to church and I meet a woman who can’t afford to send her son to school.

Or I could descend into despair.  Many do, and it beckons me.  Sometimes the temptation is strong.

Or I could look to this Sunday.

I can look–once again–to my confidence that Jesus existed, that I can trust what the Bible says about him, that he really did enter into our madness to bring us hope.  I can remind myself that his death and resurrection really were the pinnacle of history, the axis around which everything else revolves, and the assurance that all really will be made right some day.

Jesus really is the only reason I have hope.  Without him, this world is just some cruel joke, some accidental freak of nature that will, eventually, disintegrate back into nothingness.  Why try to fight it?  Without him, denial or despair are my only options.

I have seen the burden God has laid on the human race.  He has made everything beautiful in its time.  He has also set eternity in the human heart; yet no one can fathom what God has done from beginning to end.  (Ecc. 3:10-11)

Because of Sunday, I can have hope that he makes all things beautiful:  failed missionary efforts, corrupt adoption, desperate mothers in poverty.  I can have hope that eternity does exist, that God does know what he is doing, and that one day, it will all make sense.  I can get up in the morning and know that everything I do has purpose, that my small story is part of one grand story, and that this tragedy most certainly will have a happy ending.

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